I drove us into a new world. Gone were the good roads, the modern gas stations and colorful villages. Now we saw everything in gray, lifeless colors. The roads we had to contend with had bathtub sized potholes and were littered with monstrous, antiquated Russian trucks that took up nearly the whole width of the roads, belching out black fumes into the crisp, Spring air. We kept going... 

Soon we crossed more mountains; I was lucky as this stretch over the Carpathian Mountains was in the daylight and the weather wasn't that bad. It was still a hell of a drive to Moscow, that's if the car made it. We had great, long stretches of road and getting around the pathetically slow Russian built cars and trucks was the easy part. It was the potholes that caused the most problems. As soon as I got up speed, all of a sudden, out of nowhere I would have to slam on the brakes or swerve around these ever present potholes that nearly took the bottom out of the car. 

Igor doesn't speak English well, and though my German's very limited, this was the only language he spoke during the trip. Whether Igor was navigating from the front or the back seat, his favorite phrase was "Pas auf!" (Be careful!). Every time he'd see and upcoming pothole, for which he thought would certainly ruin his car, we'd get an earful of this phrase.

Soon after the mountains, Mark took over the wheel and trouble started again. Occasionally, when we went through a dreary little village, we'd encounter a member of the CIS highway patrol. 

They're affectionately known as the "Guyee," and are usually just a lone policeman standing at his post, checking the passing traffic. No fast chases, they just stand there and rule with fear. He would wave his little flag for you to stop if he wanted; which happened soon enough. 

Mark found a stretch of road worthy of doing a bit over the unposted speed limit and soon he saw the waving flag as we came into a village. We pulled over and the policeman had a good look at Marks license and passport. He told us that a fine was necessary. Igor told him we didn't have any Ukraine money yet, so the policeman told us that we must drive another hour into L'vov, change money and come back to give him the money for the fine! We didn't like that idea and had come prepared with small notes in U.S. Dollars and Deutsch Marks. 

Igor asked if we couldn't settle this here, producing a 5 Mark note (about $ 3). The policeman looked up and down the road, then quickly took the note, and with a smile told us how far away the next checkpoint was. We drove off wondering why he was so nice about it. (Later we learned that we offered twice the going rate for a bribe in the Ukraine and so he was quite happy to warn us about upcoming checkpoints!)

Our goal tonight was Kiev where Igor had some friends we could stay with for a rest. We drove and drove. Igor called ahead to tell his friends of our approximate arrival time. But it just didn't happen that soon though. More problems with the decaying roads, lack of correct road signs, the weather and the worry of running out of gas. When the Ukraine decided to become independent, Russia said (in Igor's words) 'fine, but don't count on us for your near free gas supply anymore.' Which is exactly what happened - now gas is scarce. 

We saw decrepit stations along the way, hardly any open. The only luck we had was with private entrepreneurs who realized the upcoming problem and stockpiled it. So occasionally, alongside of the road there'd be a man in a chair with a jerry can sitting next to him. Igor was worried about running out, so we stopped at most opportunities to top up our supplies, paying the private price - which was still cheap compared Western European prices. We pulled into Kiev early the next morning, about 4 a.m., taking much longer than planned.

Igor's friend
Sasha, and his sister Vola, still lived with mother in their typically small but warm apartment.

They welcomed us with smiles, even at that time of the morning. They put us right to bed for a much needed sleep. We were woken a few hours later and treated to a great brunch of potato & cheese dumplings and other local specialties. 

The plan was to get on the road as soon as possible, but Sasha talked us into staying for tonight as well. After we ate Sasha and Vola took us on a walking tour of Kiev, eager to practice their English on Mark and I. They made sure to show us the red colored university where Sasha studied. And then to a few of Kiev's main attractions including the 900 year old 'Golden Gate;' St. Sophia's Cathedral, with it's numerous cupolas and the Monastery of Pechersk where we climbed the 260 foot bell tower for a great view over Kiev.